Two-tone Square: a Tutorial for Square 6 of the Scheepjes Wol CAL
Firstly, apologies that this has taken a bit long.
Writing and photographing a tutorial of this magnitude is quite something, especially when there is a bit of a deadline as well. After all I didn’t want you all to fall too far behind in the CAL 🙂
Anyway, here goes…..
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it a thousand more times: I love this cal!
When I saw the square for week 6 I immediately knew I had to make it in two colours like I did with the popcorn squares.
But unlike with the popcorn squares I wanted to minimise the yarn ends. Drastically!
With the popcorn squares I still had about 28 yarn ends to weave in at the end, and life is just a bit too short for that!
This square was quite a brain drain to figure out!
The front post stitches and chain spaces made it impossible to work in the round without turning.
Here’s an overview of what to expect from the tutorial:
You will need to use both front and back post dcs.
You will carry the yarn ends up as you go.
You will start the square in the corner and turn your work after each round once you’ve started alternating colours.
You can use the chainless dc to start each round if you wish. This method creates a neater finish.
What you will need:
Please have your copy of week 5’s pattern with you as I am not going to go through each stitch in the pattern during the tutorial, only those parts that are of importance for the colour changes.
If you are not taking part in the CAL but would like to make this square you can find all the patterns on this dedicated page on a creative being’s blog.
Per square you will need four strands of yarn per colour.
This means that you will need two balls of yarn per colour, using the yarn from the outside of the ball and simultaneously centre pulling.
Or, you can risk wasting some yarn and do what I did by unwinding the yarn from the ball and making four little balls of each colour. I estimated around 4g for the solid parts and about 2g for the filet parts, it worked out almost perfectly and I had very little wastage.
Make sure that one of the balls for the main colour has slightly more yarn, since that will be your starting yarn, with which you will crochet rounds 1 and 2.
If you do this you need to work with the weight of your previous squares, week 1 is a good one to use as its fairly similar in weight.
I start all rounds with the chainless DC, which I’ve linked to above.
Complete round 1 of week 5’s square as explained in the pattern but instead of making 2 chains and slip stitching to the top of the ch3 (or to the chainless DC) you will close the round with 1 chain and a single crochet into the top of the chain 3 (or chainless DC).
Make 2 dc around the single crochet from round 1 followed by a front post dc into the next dc.
Continue as per pattern instructions to the end of the round and again close the round with 1 chain and a slip stitch to the first dc.
Like in the photo below.
Turn your work and make 2dc around the 1chain of the previous round.
Now make 1 back post dc, instead of a front post dc.
You will make a back post dc instead of a front post dc every time the pattern instructions ask for one in this round.
This is done by inserting your hook from back to front and then again to the back, around the post of the required stitch.
Once the back post dc is completed you will see the un-used top part of the dc.
This is what it looks like from the front.
Attach the first strand of contrast yarn by pulling it through the loop on the hook.
Make sure that the unused yarn lies behind your work the first time that you change colours, or you won’t be able to complete the round.
Make 1 chain, as per instructions and then pull the unused yarn tight removing the stitch. This is very important, or you will be left with shat looks like 2 chains instead of 1 chain in the contrasting colour. You can see what it should look like in the photo after this one.
Drop the yarn end and work off the first two loops of the dc making sure that the yarn end is secured under the stitch.
Now loop the yarn end over your hook and work off the last two loops of the dc. This will again catch the yarn end and also move it up so that you can continue in this manner until the end is properly worked away.
This is what it will look like after the dc is completed.
You will repeat this step with each new strand of contrast yarn. Make sure that as you work up each round that you keep the tension of the yarn end quite tight or your end will unravel.
Once you have completed the dc you will attach a new strand of the main colour.
Don’t make a chain and don’t pull the unused yarn to close the loop as this will act as your chain.
Make sure that from now on the unused yarn lies in front of your work, not behind as shown in the photo below.
When making the next back post dc make sure you wrap the yarn end around the hook as well (as shown above).
Once the back post dc is competed simply crochet around the yarn end as you make the remaining stitches in the working colour. When you get to the dc before the next back post dc wrap the yarn end around the hook to move it up to the height of the next round, as shown above.
Continue changing colours in the same manner until all four sides are worked.
remember to wrap the yarn ends around the hook so that they are carried along as you are working.
Also remember to move the un-used working yarn to the front of the work as shown in the photo below.
Once you have attached all the strands of yarn you will notice that the last pice of the round still needs to be worked, as shown in the photo.
To work the last few stitches pick up the first strand of yarn again.
You need to leave a bit of slack on this strand, since it is already attached to the square.
Yo and pull the strand through the loop on the hook and then wrap both the working yarn and the ‘end’ around the hook. Then complete the back post dc.
Now finish the round making sure you crochet over the lose end.
Again complete the round with 1 chain and a single crochet into the top of the 3ch (or chainless dc).
When making the sc make sure that you wrap the lose piece of yarn over the hook too, as shown in the photo.
If you don’t do this you won’t be able to crochet over it in the next round.
This is what your square will look like so far. This is the square from the wrong side!
This is the square from the right side. You will notice that there is a little piece of yarn left over. Don’t worry, this will be worked away in the next round.
Make 2 dc into the corner and then follow the pattern as written until you get to the front post dc.
Ensure that you leave the current strand of yarn behind the work before changing colours.
Pick up the next strand of yarn and make a chain.
Pull the just-dropped strand of yarn tight to remove the extra chain.
This next step is going to take a bit of practice and I suggest reading through all of it before trying it, just so you get the idea 😉
Simultaneously wrap your hook around the little piece of yarn that was carried up from Round 3 and around the current working yarn.
When making the next dc make sure you carry the yarn end up by lining it up with the chain-space from round 3.
Then continue working the yarn end in as you carry on with this section by wrapping it around the hook before working the next chain and by wrapping it around the hook before making the second dc. This last step will move the yarn end down again, so make sure you wrap it around the hook before completing the dc.
Remember: the aim is to keep moving the yarn end up with each round.
Continue switching colours and weaving in the yarn ends in the above manner until you get to the end of the round.
When picking up the first strand of yarn to complete the round make sure you crochet over the little piece of lose yarn from the previous round.
Pick up the first strand of the round and again crochet over the lose bit, as in the previous round.
Turn your work, so that you are working on the wrong side and continue in the same manner as for round 3 until the second colour change.
When changing back to the main colour the first stitch you will need to make is a back post dc.
In order to hide the piece of carried-up yarn do the following:
Wrap the carried-up yarn around the hook while simultaneously wrapping the working yarn around the hook as if preparing to make the back post dc.
However, before inserting the hook around the post wrap the carried-up yarn around your hook one more time.
This last wrap does not count, or act, as a yarn over. It will just enable you to hide this little piece of yarn properly.
Now complete the back post crochet.
For the remainder of round five simply follow the directions for round 3 as given above.
Remember to carry the yarn ends up as you go along and don’t forget to move all unused strands of yarn to the front of your work (Except the first strand).
Here’s round 5 from the back…
… and from the front.
Rounds 6 -8 follow in the same manner as described above.
Remember to turn after every round and to use back post dcs on the rounds that are worked from the wrong side.
This round differs slightly from previous rounds when it comes to changing from the main colour to the contrast colour.
Instead of completing the entire dc only work off the first two loops on the hook. Now change to the contrast colour and complete the dc.
This method will create a neater finish since there is no ‘extra’ chain to hide.
This is actually also the correct way to do colour changes however I did not use it for the previous rounds because hiding the yarn becomes a bit more difficult when using it, mainly because of the front and back post stitches.
When each colour change is completed you can cut the yarn ends, including the yarn from the first section.
When completing the last (first) section of the square you will need to attache a new section of yarn, since carrying the first strand back would again leave a length of yarn exposed (which would look ugly).
So, attach a new strand of yarn and work the remaining stitches while simultaneously weaving in the end and crocheting over the little length of exposed yarn from the last round.
With the loop still on the hook, pull the hook up to draw the yarn end out of the last chain.
Do not pull too hard or you will tighten the chain.
If you have used the chainless dc throughout the square make sure you SKIP this stitch when creating the invisible join.
Turn your square so the wrong side is facing up and insert your hook through the long loop of yarn from the chainless dc. Now draw the yarn end through that loop.
Now insert your hook through the bottom loop of the chainless dc and pull the yarn end through the loop.
Then turn your square over to the wrong side and pull the yarn end back to the wrong side so that you can weave in the end.
Weave in the 12 remaining yarn ends and block.
When blocking it’s advisable to place pins into the corners as well as into the first and last stitch of each contrast colour sections.
That was quite something!
I hope it makes sense.
Please feel free to ask questions if anything is unclear, I’m glad to help.